Things I’ve learned the hard way – Map your route

A Dyno is short for dynamic move (like jumping for a hold). They are really cool when you pull them off and can sometimes hurt if you fail.

How many times have you just jumped right into something without thinking, only to realize that you probably should have had a better plan going into it? Well I certainly have learned that the hard way when rock climbing.  I’ve climbed my way right into a place where the only option I had was pull off an insane dyno or fall.  Before I realized that I was doing this a lot and climbing seemed to be really really hard.  Of course the problem turned out to be that I hadn’t really planned a route, I just started climbing.  I’d search for a decent handhold and when I found one I’d use it, not thinking about the next hold until I found a place for my feet.

Of course now that I’m slightly wiser I take a minute to pick a route out. After I do that I always try and think three or four holds in advance.  This is really easy when you’re climbing in a gym, it’s not so straight forward when you’re rock climbing.  It has made life so much easier on me.  A good friend shared this little gem with me: “climbing isn’t about getting to the top, it’s about getting to the top while using as little energy as possible.”  Now a seasoned climber will tell you that dynos are a lot of fun and you should constantly challenge yourself by trying harder and harder routes.  I don’t disagree with that, but if you’re just starting out why not enjoy your climbs instead of frustrating yourself by trying to pull of a move that you’re just not ready for?  It takes time to get your body in “climbing shape.”

Until you’ve got a few falls under your belt and feel physically (and emotionally) ready to try for that epic dyno, just take the advice of the great Kunu from Forgetting Sarah Marshall: “Your doing too much, do less. The less you do, the more you do!”  Just climb simple.  Take easy routes and work your way up to the more challenging ones.

Leave a comment